Chapter 2 - Diamond Education Made Easy (Part 1 - Analyzing the 4Cs)
So after Shyan made the first move to inform our parents of our upcoming marriage in November 2017, the next step is to choose the engagement ring. Now traditionally (and romantically), the guy usually chooses the design of the engagement ring and keep it as a surprise for the girl. But noooo, I decided to go against the conventional process, what if he suddenly decide to propose using a ring with a design that I don't like?? Then I'll be stuck with it forever!
So I declared to Shyan happily:
"I want to choose my engagement ring."
This includes everything from the diamond, to the material, to the settings.
Being the gentleman he was, he agreed to my request. So off I went to research everything about diamonds that I could get my hands on. There is a wealth of information that I found on the internet, and trust me, the amount of information that is available on the internet is ALOT. And it gets confusing after awhile.
But.. Since I'd done my background research, and I always think that there is no need to do double work, so I'm proud to present a short summary of diamonds, and what criteria you should be looking out for when you're searching for THE perfect diamond for THE perfect lady in your life.
Disclaimer: I am not a certified gemologist, I am just a passionate person who loves everything shiny and bling, and would love to share my knowledge about what I'd read about.
So let me introduce to you:
CHAPTER 2: DIAMOND EDUCATION MADE EASY
This review is great for those who are looking for round type of diamond, with Hearts & Arrow cut.
For the records, all information below was available free from Google. I hope this guides would provide you with the basic information and understanding about diamonds, and what criteria to look out for.
For further reading, I personally recommend the following websites: My Engagement Ring Experience (specifically for Malaysians) and Beyond4Cs (in-depth explanation on everything you need and want to know about diamonds). Feel free to check them out for more updated information.
Diamonds are small, but extremely complex to analyze. To simplify things, analyzing a diamond could be divided into six different parts/posts, which would be linked as below:
Chapter 2.1: Basic - Physical Analysis (Analyzing the 4Cs)
Chapter 2.2: Basic - Diamond Certification Systems
Chapter 2.3: Complex - Diamond Structure and HCA Score Calculator
Chapter 2.4: Complex - The Significance of Hearts and Arrows
Chapter 2.5: Complex - Evaluating Light Performance Using ASET/Idealscope
Chapter 2.6: Finale - Easy Step-by-Step Guide on How to Choose Your Diamond
Once you have a basic understanding on how to choose your diamonds, read here on the selection process and how to choose the best sparkly diamond that could make your girls eyes shine.
Chapter 2.1: Basic - Physical Analysis (Analyzing the 4Cs)
Chapter 2.2: Basic - Diamond Certification Systems
Chapter 2.3: Complex - Diamond Structure and HCA Score Calculator
Chapter 2.4: Complex - The Significance of Hearts and Arrows
Chapter 2.5: Complex - Evaluating Light Performance Using ASET/Idealscope
Chapter 2.6: Finale - Easy Step-by-Step Guide on How to Choose Your Diamond
Once you have a basic understanding on how to choose your diamonds, read here on the selection process and how to choose the best sparkly diamond that could make your girls eyes shine.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chapter 2.1: Physical Analysis (Analyzing the 4Cs)
0.48 carat = 5.09 mm
0.49 carat = 5.12 mm
0.50 carat = 5.20 mm
Think about it, that RM1000 that you just saved could get you a night in St Regis KL. *wink*
Clarity had always been very subjective as it is a beauty where it could not be appreciated by naked eyes. But the price difference between each grade is very significant, as it is very rare to get a diamond that is internally flawless, and once you do find it, it'll definitely be a large sum to pay.
My advise is to get an eye-clean diamond, which means that you could not see the inclusions with your naked eyes. Some diamonds are very heavily included, which will actually affect the beauty of the diamond, as seen below. If you wish to be safe, stay within the VS2 range and above, but I have seen some pretty diamonds that are SI1 as well. Use your judgement to find the best diamond that suits your needs and requirements.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chapter 2.1: Physical Analysis (Analyzing the 4Cs)
Basic analysis of a diamonds would include the analysis of 4Cs. Now, if you go into any jewelry shop and request for a diamond education, chances are that 99% of them will launch into a well-rehearsed lecture about the 4Cs.
But what do the 4Cs stand for?
"Cut, Colour, Carat and Clarity"
The basic of the basics. All these are mainly physical characteristics of the diamonds, and every diamond has its unique characteristics, which are defined by the 4Cs.
Cut
The cut represents the grade of the cut, which is defined by various grading sources (AGS, IGI, GIA, etc). It differs from the term 'shape', where shape defines the geometry of the diamond: cushion, round, heart, etc. Typical grading system includes Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor. The cut quality is the most important factor that would affect the diamond's performance.
Emphasized by Beyond4Cs, and MyEngagementRingExperience; I am also advocating that the cut is the most important factor in the 4Cs. This is because, a good cut could:
How so? A good cut diamond has the ideal proportions to maximize light return to the viewers eyes. In other words, it depends on how the light is refracted and reflected within the diamond that could provide us with the intense sparkle or scintillation. Lets take a look at this simplified diagram on the direction of the light flow:
For an excellent/ideal cut stone, you could see that a large proportion of the light that enters the diamond is reflected back through the face of the diamond, into your eyes. This is highly desirable, as it makes the diamond look very sparkly and alive.
Have you seen diamonds that are lack luster and dull? There is a high chance that it is because the diamond is not cut in an ideal proportion, where by it is either too shallow, or too deep. Due to the non ideal proportions, the light that enters from the top of the diamond gets reflected out in strange areas, which is also known as light leakages. When light leaks out from the side of the diamond, there'll be less light return to your eyes, which makes the diamond look less brilliant, dull and even appears to look dark.
Typically, the cut is often divided into three categories:
The cut represents the grade of the cut, which is defined by various grading sources (AGS, IGI, GIA, etc). It differs from the term 'shape', where shape defines the geometry of the diamond: cushion, round, heart, etc. Typical grading system includes Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor. The cut quality is the most important factor that would affect the diamond's performance.
CUT IS KING!!!
Emphasized by Beyond4Cs, and MyEngagementRingExperience; I am also advocating that the cut is the most important factor in the 4Cs. This is because, a good cut could:
- Enhance the shape of the diamond (aka makes the diamond looks bigger than it actually is)
- Improves the visual colour due to the light reflection
- Hide imperfections
How so? A good cut diamond has the ideal proportions to maximize light return to the viewers eyes. In other words, it depends on how the light is refracted and reflected within the diamond that could provide us with the intense sparkle or scintillation. Lets take a look at this simplified diagram on the direction of the light flow:
Image obtained from Beyond4Cs
For an excellent/ideal cut stone, you could see that a large proportion of the light that enters the diamond is reflected back through the face of the diamond, into your eyes. This is highly desirable, as it makes the diamond look very sparkly and alive.
Have you seen diamonds that are lack luster and dull? There is a high chance that it is because the diamond is not cut in an ideal proportion, where by it is either too shallow, or too deep. Due to the non ideal proportions, the light that enters from the top of the diamond gets reflected out in strange areas, which is also known as light leakages. When light leaks out from the side of the diamond, there'll be less light return to your eyes, which makes the diamond look less brilliant, dull and even appears to look dark.
Typically, the cut is often divided into three categories:
- Cut/Light performance - Represents the proportion of the diamond (refer diagram above)
- Polish - Represents the degree of smoothness of each facet of the diamond
- Symmetry - Represents how symmetrical the diamond (round) is cut
It may be slightly too technical to go into the description of each term at this point, and I may not be the right person to go through. What you do need to know, is that you should pick the best cut/grade for the above 3 categories (Excellent), and never settle for anything less. If you require more visual proof on the different types of diamond cut grades, you may refer here, and revel in the fact that Excellent is only the way to go.
In stores, you may tell the consultants that you would like a diamond with 3EX, as it represents a diamond with excellence in cut, polish and symmetry. If you find a store which tells you to settle for diamonds with a poorer cut (2EX1VG, Excellent in any two categories, 1 Very Good in the remaining category), stay away from them. They are out to get your money and do not care much about what you want.
All in all, all ladies would only look at the visual impact of the diamond: on how sparkly it is so that we can show our friends and watch them turn green and jelly, *ahem don't pretend ladies, I'm on to you* So if you have to get, get a diamond with nothing less than a triple EXCELLENT.
This section is just an introductory teaser on how to rate the cut. For laymen, you may stop here. but if you're truly interested in the technical parts, read more at Part 3 of this series (the technical stuff) for a deeper understanding on how to rate proportions, and how to rate the cuts using light performance indicators.
*These are technical proofs on how to get the best diamonds for your moolah! Totally worth reading!*
Colour
The colour represents the colour of the diamond. The range starts from D (colourless), all the way to Z whereby the diamond is a natural yellow colour. The smaller the alphabet, the more expensive it will be, as it is always desirable to obtain the colorless diamond.
However, quite honestly when I went to see the diamonds at a retail store, I could not differentiate between the 'colourless' and 'near colourless' diamonds with my naked eye, even when they are side by side. The only time when the yellow tinge is apparent is at ' I ' colour onwards.
I would like to point out that there are no right or wrong when choosing the diamond colours because it really depends on the wearer, and her colour preference. Some ladies may even prefer a yellow diamond, because it looks very pretty especially when set in yellow gold.
The colour represents the colour of the diamond. The range starts from D (colourless), all the way to Z whereby the diamond is a natural yellow colour. The smaller the alphabet, the more expensive it will be, as it is always desirable to obtain the colorless diamond.
However, quite honestly when I went to see the diamonds at a retail store, I could not differentiate between the 'colourless' and 'near colourless' diamonds with my naked eye, even when they are side by side. The only time when the yellow tinge is apparent is at ' I ' colour onwards.
I would like to point out that there are no right or wrong when choosing the diamond colours because it really depends on the wearer, and her colour preference. Some ladies may even prefer a yellow diamond, because it looks very pretty especially when set in yellow gold.
Image obtained from Google
Carat
The carat represents the size of the diamond. Or more precisely, the weight of the diamond. 1 carat represents 200 mg of the diamond. Diamonds are also measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat. A hundreth of a carat is also called a point. So a 0.10 carat stone can be called either 10 points, or 1/10 of a carat. So therefore 0.4 carat (also known as 40 pointer) means that you're getting 80 mg of a diamond. The larger the carat number, the larger the diamond is going to be, the more expensive it will be. So this section highly depends on your budget.
It is also worth noting that at every increment to the next band (0.6, 0.7, 0.8, etc), and at popular sizes (0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 etc), there will be a very significant price jump, ranging from RM500 to RM1000. Since there is not much difference in terms of the diameter, I would suggest to get a 1 point lower compared to your desired tier. For example:
Say you're looking for a 0.5 carat, which sounds really impressive and big. Instead of paying the price tag, why not go for a 0.48-0.49 carat diamond, which is also equally as impressive in terms of size? At most, it is a 0.1 mm difference between 0.48 and 0.50, which is 100 micrometer difference. It is not apparent visually, so your lady would just be as happy (well, I will be) and your wallet would sure thank you for it.
The carat represents the size of the diamond. Or more precisely, the weight of the diamond. 1 carat represents 200 mg of the diamond. Diamonds are also measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat. A hundreth of a carat is also called a point. So a 0.10 carat stone can be called either 10 points, or 1/10 of a carat. So therefore 0.4 carat (also known as 40 pointer) means that you're getting 80 mg of a diamond. The larger the carat number, the larger the diamond is going to be, the more expensive it will be. So this section highly depends on your budget.
It is also worth noting that at every increment to the next band (0.6, 0.7, 0.8, etc), and at popular sizes (0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 etc), there will be a very significant price jump, ranging from RM500 to RM1000. Since there is not much difference in terms of the diameter, I would suggest to get a 1 point lower compared to your desired tier. For example:
Say you're looking for a 0.5 carat, which sounds really impressive and big. Instead of paying the price tag, why not go for a 0.48-0.49 carat diamond, which is also equally as impressive in terms of size? At most, it is a 0.1 mm difference between 0.48 and 0.50, which is 100 micrometer difference. It is not apparent visually, so your lady would just be as happy (well, I will be) and your wallet would sure thank you for it.
0.48 carat = 5.09 mm
0.49 carat = 5.12 mm
0.50 carat = 5.20 mm
Think about it, that RM1000 that you just saved could get you a night in St Regis KL. *wink*
Clarity
The clarity represents the impurities or inclusions in the diamond. As diamonds are mined from natural resources, there are possibilities that there are some flaws within the diamond, such as crystals, clouding, or even pin holes in the diamond. Man made flaws could also occur, especially during the cutting of the diamond, which may cause feathering or chipping. The clarity range would range from FL (flawless) to SI (slightly included).
The clarity represents the impurities or inclusions in the diamond. As diamonds are mined from natural resources, there are possibilities that there are some flaws within the diamond, such as crystals, clouding, or even pin holes in the diamond. Man made flaws could also occur, especially during the cutting of the diamond, which may cause feathering or chipping. The clarity range would range from FL (flawless) to SI (slightly included).
Image obtained from Google
Clarity had always been very subjective as it is a beauty where it could not be appreciated by naked eyes. But the price difference between each grade is very significant, as it is very rare to get a diamond that is internally flawless, and once you do find it, it'll definitely be a large sum to pay.
My advise is to get an eye-clean diamond, which means that you could not see the inclusions with your naked eyes. Some diamonds are very heavily included, which will actually affect the beauty of the diamond, as seen below. If you wish to be safe, stay within the VS2 range and above, but I have seen some pretty diamonds that are SI1 as well. Use your judgement to find the best diamond that suits your needs and requirements.
In summary, there are no right or wrong when choosing the 4Cs of the diamond. The most important factor (in my humble opinion) that one should stick to when choosing the diamond is to establish the budget. Once the budget had been established, then you may begin picking the diamonds. Just a few important notes to remember from this section:
- Pick a diamond with 3EX or equivalent, and nothing less
- You may play around with the colour and/or carat of the diamond. This is personal preference
- Exercise your judgement when choosing a diamond with a low clarity. Always ensure that the diamond is eye-clean. From my experience, I would recommend a diamond that is within VS1-VS2 for assurance and security for a eye-clean diamond.
Now that you have a brief understanding about the 4Cs, you may proceed to Part 2 of this series where I will discuss about the diamond certification laboratories, and how they may affect the rating of the 4Cs. For more technical information, you may be interested in Part 3-5 where I will touch on the technicality of diamonds, and how to analyze the results and data.
Comments
Post a Comment